Drawer menu
Silk is one of the oldest luxury materials on earth. It has been woven into robes, bedding and sleepwear for thousands of years — a fabric so associated with comfort, beauty and softness that it has outlasted every synthetic alternative invented to replace it. But the question of how silk is made, and under what conditions, is one that the industry has not always answered well.
If you have started asking where your silk comes from — who made it, how the silkworms were treated, what chemicals were involved — you are part of a growing movement of consumers who understand that the most luxurious choice is also the most considered one. This is the guide to what ethical silk actually means, and why it matters.
All commercial silk begins with the Bombyx mori silkworm, which spins a single continuous thread of protein fibre around itself as it prepares to metamorphose. To extract that thread intact — which is what makes mulberry silk so lustrous and fine — the cocoon is typically immersed in hot water while the silkworm is still inside. This kills the chrysalis and allows the thread to be reeled off in one piece, sometimes reaching lengths of up to 1,500 metres from a single cocoon.
The term ethical silk covers several distinct dimensions. The global silk industry employs millions of people, predominantly women, across silk farming, reeling, weaving and garment making. In many producing regions, particularly in China, India and Uzbekistan, working conditions and wages can vary enormously between producers. Ethical silk brands commit to transparent supply chains, fair wages and factories certified to internationally recognised labour standards.
Certifications worth looking for include OEKO-TEX Standard 100 — which certifies that every component of a finished textile has been tested for harmful substances — and the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), which covers both environmental and social criteria across the entire production chain. When silk is OEKO-TEX certified, the finished fabric has been independently tested for over 100 potentially harmful substances. This is the single most meaningful certification to look for on a silk product.
Peace silk — also called ahimsa silk, meaning non-violence in Sanskrit — is produced by allowing the silkworm to complete its natural lifecycle and emerge from the cocoon before the thread is harvested. The thread is shorter and slightly less uniform than conventional silk. It is worth noting that peace silk is not automatically superior in terms of feel or performance. Mulberry silk produced through conventional methods but held to rigorous chemical and labour standards can be an excellent, ethically considered choice.
Silk is a natural, biodegradable fibre — which gives it an inherent environmental advantage over synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon, which shed microplastics into waterways with every wash and persist in landfill for hundreds of years. The key factors that determine whether a silk product has a lower environmental impact include whether the mulberry trees are grown without synthetic pesticides, whether the dyeing process uses low-impact dyes, and whether the finished product is durable enough to be worn for years.
When choosing silk sleepwear, the most important question is whether it is 100% mulberry silk. Look for this on the label, not just in the marketing copy. Ask what momme weight it is — quality silk sleepwear typically falls between 16 and 22 momme. Ask whether it carries OEKO-TEX or a comparable certification. And ask whether the brand can tell you where their silk comes from. Transparency about supply chain is a meaningful signal of genuine ethical commitment.
A silk piece worn for five years has a dramatically lower impact than a fast-fashion alternative purchased and discarded within a season. Choosing quality silk sleepwear and caring for it properly is itself a form of ethical consumption.
At Calliope Studio, we make silk sleepwear intended to be worn for years. Browse the Sleep and Silk collection, or read our Silk Care Guide.
Free shipping on orders over $200 Australia-wide. Returns accepted — $10 return postage paid by the customer. Beautifully gift wrapped.
